Some building materials from which the walls are built immediately imply the need for outdoor decoration at home: a picture is very unsightly. Others can lose attractive over time. And the third case is an extensive formation of cracks, which is "treated", but the results are visible. In all these cases, the question arises: "How to strip the house outside." More often, it is necessary to "notify" - without the use of a solution or other similar means that require a large amount of money and time. I want to do everything quickly and, very desirable - inexpensive, and even if possible, - do it yourself. Oddly enough, but there is a choice of materials and technologies, and considerable.
Selecting the materials for the object of the house from the street, be sure to remember that in order to maintain normal humidity in the premises, the vapor permeability of materials should be reduced from the inside of the room - outward. That is, the outer decoration should better carry out steam than the material of the walls. Then the increased humidity, which is characteristic of our homes, will be excreted through the walls naturally (explanations in the photo).
If this principle is broken, the moisture will accumulate on the border of materials with different vapor permeability. It condenses, creating conditions for rotting, the development of fungi and mold. In winter it freezes, destroying the wall of the wall and / or finishes. Sooner or later, such a system will have to dismantle and redo.
The whole trouble is that only wood is responsible for this requirement. Most of the other materials for the outer decoration of the house has low vapor permeability. The problem is solved in two ways:
Today, the second option becomes increasingly popular. There were very effective thermal insulation materials that allow us to reduce the cost of heating. But they have very low vapor permeability (expanded polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam). When using them, only the second moisture regulation scheme is possible. Choosing than to strip the house, consider these moments.
Wood in construction and decoration is not used by the birth of an eyelid, and it seems to be relevant for a long time. All thanks to excellent appearance and property to regulate humidity in the room. This is perhaps the only material that without problems will remove excess moisture regardless of what material the walls are built.
The most popular materials for the walls of the walls are a block House and imitation of a bar. There is still lining for the outer decoration - it has a greater thickness, compared to the one that is intended for the interior decoration of the house, the rest is no different.
The block house simulates the surface of the rounded log - the front part has a rounded shape. The imitation of the bar is very similar to the planed timber. Both types of cladding are attached to the crate, then polished and covered with protective impregnations, but they are still quenched or painted.
If you cannot decide what to see a house of foam blocks outside, consider the Wooden Facing option. In this case, the walls are nailed (metallic or wooden). If necessary, the insulation is laid between the planks - basalt wool (foam or polystyrene foam can not be used), and then a wooden casing is nailed.
If the cheapest option is needed, for most regions of Russia it is an ordinary planed board. Its thickness - from 40 mm, stuffing as well as the lining or block house on the crate, the lower end of the top board comes by 10-20 mm on it below it. It turns out the principle of the bump. So you can build a country house or even residential. With due processing, such a facing has a very good appearance.
The disadvantages of such a finish are the same as in any wood: it can be damaged by pests, rot, without proper care quickly loses decorativeness, becomes dark and ugly. If you want to strip the house, and do not remember it for years, it is not your choice. It takes care of the wooden trim, and most often - annual.
How to make a house brick read here.
In some regions, boards and other lumber are far from the most affordable materials. In this case, cheaper to climb the house by siding. This is the option when making a finish once, you can forget about it for a long time.
Since the trim is nailed for the crate, the facade is obtained ventilated. If it is necessary to retain wooden walls (from bar, logs, shields) Siding - one of the options. It can also be used for the structure of any other material: foam block, aerated concrete, slapped, etc. This facing is universal.
Siding is made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and therefore it is also called vinyl. It is a strip of material with a width of 205 and 255 mm, a thickness of 1.1 mm and 1.2 mm. There is a lock on the longitudinal faces on one side of the castle, on the other - perforation under fasteners (the screws are used more often).
Siding is fastened too to the crate. Recommend to use special metallic, but fully soaked wooden bars. Only regular starting and sidebands will be needed. The only nuance: self-tapping screws need a little "pregnant", leaving the backlash in order to compensate for the temperature changes of the materials. With this installation, siding will not crack from the stresses.
The advantages of this material for the outside of the house: low prices, easy installation.
Lack of vinyl siding: it quickly flashes into the sun, because it is desirable to use inappropriate colors. It has a fairly wide temperature mode of operation: from + 50 ° C to -35 ° C, but even in small frosts becomes fragile and is easily damaged.
Another point: look good at home, covered with siding, having broken configuration. If the building is rectangular, without architectural excesses, it has not the most attractive appearance (in confirmation of the photo below).
Metal siding is a strip of thin aluminum or galvanized steel, which causes a protective-decorative coating. It has the same fastening system as vinyl.
The coating can be made of polymers. It is distinguished by reliability, resistance to burnout, other climatic factors. His drawback is a limited choice of colors. The second coating option is powder staining. The color scheme is much wider, the paint is kept for years without signs of peeling.
If you are looking for than to bind the house outside, so that the finish is reliable and brighter, you may suit one of the options for metallic siding. It can be brought, it is very difficult to break, the installation is not very complex: good scissors for metal, self-tapping screw, screwdriver or screwdriver are necessary. All the features of the installation are the same as in vinyl, with the only difference that the metal can be mounted and at negative temperatures.
From the point of view of durability, this is a good option, but from the point of view of aesthetics it is difficult to work with it: too "production" is obtained. The building is larger than hike on a residential building, but to a warehouse or some shop.
This is one of the varieties of vinyl siding, but it has a completely different configuration, appearance and greater panel thickness. It was designed specifically for decorating and protecting the grounds of buildings, but it became like this, which began to be used and when the facade is trimmed. Exterior design - under the brickwork of different types and color, with or without drawings, wild stone. Sometimes the imitation is so successful that it is understood that you are not brick facing, but vinyl, you can only toured the wall.
Mounted, as well as other species, on the crate, there is perforation and locks. The difference is that the base siding panel has a view of a non-long rectangle, but a certain segment of the wall with curly edges. These figured edges are joined. Accordingly, the crate must be adjusted under the dimensions of the fragment. When installing, first the edge of the panel is set in the lock already installed, achieve coincidence, and then fix. The main thing is when installing do not tighten the screws strongly, leaving the possibility of siding to move at temperature changes.
The installation of the base siding can be read here (one of the items).
The lamp can be made of wooden processed bars (protective impregnation) or from the profiles for drywall (galvanized). How to mount baseline siding on the base. See in the video. Similarly, it is attached to the wall. Difference in squares.
Features of the finishing of the house of aerated concrete are described here.
Fibro cement plates and siding
Relatively recently appeared on our market a new facing: fibrotent plates and siding from the same material. They consist of wood fibra, quartz, mica, cement, may contain chlorine and asbestos (some materials applied only for external finishing). This mixture is molded into sheets, then in several stages it is dehydrated, according to some technologies is burned. Then a protective and decorative coating is applied to the surface:
- acrylic - inexpensive, resistant to fading;
- hydrophilic ceramics - high resistance to abrasion and fading (30 years), a very low percentage of water absorption, but expensive;
- Photo ceramic - long retains the color, the dirt is easily flushed, the price is average.
The coating can be smooth - glossy and matte, can mimic brickwork, wood and other finishing materials. It is installed on the guide assembly strips, attached to the wall clearing. This material can be suitable if you do not know what to see the frame house outside: it creates a solid surface, the connections of the panels are sealed and the precipitate will not fall inside.
How to mount fibro-cement plates. Look in the video.
Fibro-cement siding is produced by the same technology, only molded in long stripes. They are mostly standard: 3600 * 190 * 12 mm. This material is cut by an electroltrol bike, installed on a wooden bracket (according to the bump principle) and nails are nailed or twisted with self-draws.
Thermopanels are a material that performs two functions at once - cladding and outdoor insulation of houses. A layer of decorative coating is applied on the heat insulation layer in the factory. It looks like marble or natural stone, does not burn, has low water absorption characteristics.
Make this finishing material based on foam, mineral wool or extruded polystyrene foam. Depending on the type of insulation, the installation method is selected: polystyrene foam and foam glued to the appropriate composition. The joints are closed with a special aluminum bar or rubbing paste.
Panels for facing the facade based on mineral wool are mounted only on a special system of profiles, jokes are closed as well.
Very attractive idea - immediately and insulate the house, and bind. Excellent appearance, and the characteristics of such cladding is impressive. It is a pity that there is no less and feedback experience: Most recently it appeared.
There are still clinker thermopanels. Clinker tiles are glued on the insulation. The material is not cheap, but the characteristics are impressive, as well as a variety of finishes.
The choice of materials you can sow a house at any time - in winter or in summer - there is a lot. There are expensive options, there are cheaper. In any case, besides the cost, consider vapor permeability. Then you do not have to fight mold and dampness.
How to see the house siding do it yourself
Siding is famous for simplicity and low cost when installing. With the right installation of the panels, it will last several decades, not afraid of any sharp drops of temperature, no wind, no precipitation.
Siding installation (photo)
The duration of finishing works, their cost and quality directly depend on the skills of the installer. If you already have a little experience in construction, then the lining of the house by siding will not seem too difficult task.
In this article, we gradually discern how to see the house siding with your own hands, as well as tell you what materials and tools you need for this.
Standing at home Siding: Preparatory work
Preparation for facing at home Siding begins with cleaning outdoor walls. First of all, all the protruding details are removed, which will interfere with the installation of panels: drainage, brackets, fits and shutters on the windows, platbands on the doors - everything that resells from a flat surface of the walls.
Private houses from stone and bricks purify from the old plaster, making all the cracks with cement or mounting foam. Wooden houses are cleaned of dirt and mold, and then coated with a layer of antiseptics.
The finishing of the house siding involves the exact calculation of the required amount of materials. Therefore, it is necessary to measure the width and height of the walls in advance, then from their total area to subtract the total area of windows and doors. It is also necessary to calculate the perimeter of the house and all window and doorways, the total length of the connecting structures will be clear.
Formula for calculating materials: (The area of all walls of the house - the area of windows and doors) ÷ area of one panel × 1,10
Only the useful Siding panel area is taken into account, that is, without the top locking part. 1.10 in the formula is a 10% material stock that usually goes to marriage with inaccurate trimming and final fit.
It is more convenient to use a schematic plan of the house - you can individually calculate the required number of panels on it, and it will immediately be seen where the full length panels will go, and where the pruning will be required. Any siding manufacturer will help you with calculations for free. Previously, this can be done in the online services "Alta-Calculator" and "Alta-Planer".
Tools and Mounting Mounting Tools
For quick and simple siding installation, with your own hands, you practically do not need a special tool - it is enough that it is in any private house.
- Roulette, square and metal ruler - for measurements.
- The construction level is at least 120 cm - to verify the accuracy of the installation of crates vertically and the accuracy of laying the siding panels horizontally.
- Electric drill, screwdriver or screwdriver - for fasteners.
- Knife cutter, electric jigsaw, bulgaria or handwheel for metal (with small and sharp teeth) - any of these tools will be needed to trim panels. It is better not to use the hacksaw when mounting siding in the cold season, because the panels can crack. Bulgarian should work only on small revolutions: at a high speed of rotation of its disk, the material of the panels in the scene will melt.
- Punch for siding, also known as Puinson, is needed to make hooks for fixing siding in the finish bar.
Punson is the only tool for mounting siding, which will have to specifically buy. Photo number 1.
Connecting structures. Siding panels are not the only element of the design that will be required when mounting. Among themselves they are connected by special planks: starting, connecting, finishing, etc. Separate designs are used when cladding window and door openings, as well as building corners. Applying additional structures allow you to seize the house of any design.
Plastic structures used when mounting siding. Photo №2.
Zones of applying connecting elements. Photo number 3.
Insulation. A private cottage house used only in spring-summer time, in most cases does not need additional insulation. The house in which all year round lives, usually insulate the mineral wool - it is laid outside the building, in the cells formed between the ceiling of the crate.
Scheme of crates and laying insulation. Photo number 4.
The lamp is installed on the entire surface of the facade. First of all, it is mounted along the side surfaces of the building, corners, windows, doorways and other protrusions. The standard distance between the ceilings is 40 cm. But the heavier panel, the less you need to make a step of the crate. A tighter doom should be at home, which are in the zone of strong winds and possible hurricanes.
The windows and the doors are surrounded by the crate around the perimeter - an enhanced outline is created, which is fixed by window and door platbands. Photo number 5.
As a crate on log houses, simple wooden slats are usually used. Their main minus is the high probability of curvature. Therefore, it is important to choose only dry straight rails without bitch, carefully soak them with an antiseptic and install only in dry weather.
Another option is galvanized profiles. They are more universal, but when installing in a strong heat can expand. When it grows, the decoration of siding, installed on such profiles deformed.
In order to avoid these problems and increase the strength of the crate, the company "Alta-Profile" offers the design of its own development - polymer-based installation profiles. They are suitable for any type of buildings, and their installation is possible in any weather. Polymer profiles are low weight, they easily cut and extremely simply installed on the walls of the structure. You can learn more about their application from the video structure.
The main advantage of polymer profiles is fast and accurate installation on them siding panels. Photo number 6.
How to install panels
Throughout the preparatory work, the siding panels are better stored in the covered dry room, protected from direct sunlight, in a horizontal position on a flat surface, at a temperature of -30 to +50 ° C.
Fastener sequence. Siding panels are mounted on previously installed connecting structures: starting, connecting and angular planks. Facing starts up from left to right. First attached the starting plank. It must be mounted absolutely horizontally: the smooth laying of all subsequent layers depends on this.
The first front panel is inserted into the starting bar and slightly pulls up to snaps. The panel is then screwed into screws to the crate through special mounting holes: the first screw is screwed in the middle of the siding panel to avoid its deformation in the future. When screwing into screws, the panel cannot be tightened up - it should freely hang under its own weight.
After fixing the first siding panel, exactly the same technology is set to it. To bind the facade smoothly and neatly, it is recommended to collect panels simultaneously around the perimeter of the house - in a circle, visually tracking the flattering of laying and checking the horizontal of each third layer of the construction level panels. So there will be less waste during installation - it is immediately visible where you can use cropped pieces.
The finish plank is attached after installing the last layer of siding panels. In the upper panel you need to make hooks - this will require a punch. Then these hooks are snapped into the fixture of the finish plank.
Temperature expansion clearance. The main rule of installation - siding and accessories should move freely and do not rest in anything. Due to the natural temperature difference during the year, Siding is subject to expansion and compression. Therefore, with tight fixation to the crate, it is deformed and goes by waves.
This is how errors look when calculating gaps for temperature expansion. Photo number 7.
Be sure to leave a free 5-8 mm between the siding panel and the side fastener. After installing the panel, it should move freely to the left and right, but not hang out.
Fastening elements. It is most convenient to mount siding to the crate with galvanized screw screws with a sharp tip and a wide hat. They are not subject to corrosion and eventually will not leave unpleasant rusty leaks on the facade.
There should be a 1.5 mm distance between the screw of the screw and the panel. The easiest is tied in full, and then weaken on one turn. Photo number 8.
Screws are screwed exactly in the middle of the mounting holes so that the panels can shift. Photo number 9.
Extension panels. Often the length of the building is greater than the siding panel. In such cases, use the connecting bar. In this case, the panel of standard length has to be trimmed. Having calculated their length, it is important to remember the temperature gaps.
Installation of siding panels with connecting plank (left) and lengthening of the Blank panels (right). Photo number 10.
The second way to lengthen the panels is the installation of the mustache. In order for the places of the adjoining to be thickened into the eyes, the joints of the following layers are made with a displacement. But still after a few years due to temperature extensions between the panels mounted by therapy, the gaps and the joints of the joints will appear noticeable.
Conditioning at home Siding - Video
Even more information on how to quickly and quickly see the house siding with your own hands, in the instructions of the company "Alta-Profile" and on video.
Siding is a set of PVC facing panels with a latch lock and edge (perforation) for fastening. Siding panels are designed for facing facades of residential and non-residential buildings. Siding can be installed at any time of the year. It is frosty, resistant to high humidity and temperature drops. The siding set includes not only the facing panels, but also additional elements for the convenience of mounting and imparting a completed type of window and door openings, the corners of the house and the cornices. Facing the house by siding allows you to additionally insulate it from the outside. Before proceeding with the facing, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the instructions and installation features.
What needs to be considered
- Galvanized self-tapping screws with a press washer with a size of at least 3.5 × 20 mm or steel or aluminum nails are used to fix siding. It is not necessary to use iron nails: in a humid environment, rusty sublifts are formed.
- A self-sufficiency or nail hat should not fit tightly to the siding fixing bar. Between them, it is necessary to leave a gap of 1 mm (siding expands and compresses with temperature drops, and non-compliance with this rule can lead to deformation of siding and deterioration of the appearance).
- At the uneven walls of the house before the start of the facing, the lamp is necessarily installed, to which siding is attached.
- When installing in the warm season between the side junctions of the siding panels, a temperature gap is made 5-6 mm. When installing siding during the cold season, the temperature gap is 9-10 mm.
Attention! The dimensions of the required gaps are specified in the table.
Preparation for the lining of the house by siding
- Before mounting siding, it is necessary to remove everything more superfluous from the facade of the building: remove the drainage pipes, platbands, shutters from windows, protruding windowsills, fasteners for lanterns, curly plants.
- If a wooden house is facing, then before starting installation, the house needs to be inspected for the presence of rotten and lagging boards. Rotten boards better replace, lagging boards - to nail. Then the entire surface of the antiseptic should be processed.
- Siding is mounted on a crate of wooden bars or galvanized metal profile.
Installing the crate allows to align the walls of the building, disguise the defects of the facade, create an additional exterior insulation of the object. The mounting quality of the crates largely determines the appearance of the finished object. Special attention should be paid to aligning the elements of the crate - they should be located in the same plane. Installation of siding without crates is possible only on aligned wooden walls. When installing the crate without insulation, it is recommended:
- Use dry outrageous bars 50? 50 mm or 60? 40 mm, or galvanized metal profile.
- Bashed the cage to the walls vertically, with a step of 40-50 cm.
When installing the crate with insulation, it is recommended:
- Use dry outrageous bars 50? 50 mm or 60? 40 mm, or galvanized metal profile.
- Mount vaporizolation.
- Fasten the cage to the walls horizontally with a step in the width of the insulation sheet minus 1 cm so that the insulation is tightly held.
- Selecting vapor and waterproofing to produce in accordance with the recommendations of the insulation manufacturer.
- Lay insulation.
- To nourish the insulation layer of waterproofing.
- Mount the vertical counterclaim in a step of 40-50 cm, which will be installed by siding.
Attention! The crate is attached to the walls of the house by self-draws with the help of a screwdriver. Wooden doom should be dry. It is not recommended to use fresh wood from which moisture has not yet been released.
Cutting siding For cutting vinyl siding, you can use:
- Hoven for metal with small teeth;
- knife cutter;
- Scissors for metal;
- Electric jigsaw and bulgaria (at low power).
Scissors for metal. You need to start cut in the direction from top to bottom, from the top edge of the panel (with perforation) to the lower edge. Knife cutter. The knife cutter is used to make deep furrows for which it is convenient to break the siding panels. Electropilated (jigsaw). Use the nozzle with small teeth. By vinyl, the saw very smoothly. With low or negative air temperatures, the cutting of siding is most convenient to produce a grinder. Conditioning house siding
Conditioning technologies Siding will differ depending on the configuration of the house and the presence of decorative elements on the facade.
Acclimatization of material
- Before mounting the siding panel, it is recommended to leave on the street for 2-3 hours.
- With the help of the level to make sure that the twine is stretched horizontally.
- According to the outlined circuit, hold the line.
Installation of starting strip
Returning from the angle the required distance plus 6 mm, attach the starting strip by the upper edge to the chalk line and attach it to the wall throughout the perimeter of the house (in a step of 30-40 cm).
- Between the ends of the adjacent starting bands leave a distance of 10 mm (temperature gap). If siding is expanding, the gaps will not give the facing to deform.
Attention! Fix siding is needed in the center of the special hole.
Attention! Carnat siding must be loosely, leaving a distance of 1-1.5 mm between self-draws with a press washer and vinyl.
Installation of corners
o Rates from the base of the roof cornice down the distance required to install Sofita, plus 6 mm, secure the corner profile. o Attail a profile to the corner, score nails into two upper holes. o The profile should hang on self-drawing with a press washer. o dropping down, the screws with a press washer are installed in the centers of the mounting holes at a distance of 20-40 cm from each other. o If the lengths of one profile lacks, you need to take the next panel of the angular profile and mount the flap panels, while the temperature clearance at the junction should be at least 10 mm.
Attention! The top profile should go to the bottom profile.
Overview Cash with J-Profile
For accurate mounting of siding around window or doorways, you need to make plaque from the J-profile. For the window you will need two strips of the J-profile on the horizontal plane (under and above the window), and two on the vertical (side).
Cutting on cylinders
- Attach a J-profile planks to the window to the window. Stand on profiles length and windows width.
- Cut the J-profile into pieces of the desired size.
- Each piece of profile must have a tolerance of 6 mm on each side.
- Font brackets J-profile perforation outward over the perimeter of the window opening.
- Docile the corners of the received platbands.
The next step will be the design of the angles of the j-profile bagels around the window. It is necessary so that siding around the window opening look neatly and rainwater did not fall under the facing panel. Build the right upper angle:
- In the bottom of the horizontal platband make two longitudinal wrap 2 cm from the edge.
- According to the diagram in the figure, beaten the resulting "UCHO" down.
- From the upper right angle of the lateral platband, measure and cut off the corner of 45 °. It turns out a small "pockets".
- Insert the "ear" horizontal profile in the "pockets" of the side profile.
- Similarly, docile the remaining three angle.
Installation of basic panels
When the starting strip, corners and platbands will be ready, you can start the installation of the main facing panels.
- The bottom edge of the first facing panel snapped into the starting strip.
- Top edge attach to the wall. It is necessary to mount it through the mounting edge, loosely. If after fixing the panel moves a little left-right, then everything was done correctly.
Attention! To start the mounting of the panel follows from the middle, gradually moving to the edges with a step of 30-40 cm. Attention! When docking facing panels with side elements, you need to leave a gap from 6 to 10 mm (tolerance for the possible expansion of the material).
Attention! The joints of the siding panels must be positioned so that the tip of the top row is above the center (or near the center) of the lower row panel. The joints should not be one above the other, the interval between the joints should be 50 cm. The total is 10 cm.
- The last top row of siding under the cornice is mounted only after installing the finishing profile.
Installation of the finishing profile
Docking planks of the finishing profile:
- Continue installation of the finish profile.
- After completing the perimeter finish at home, the finishing profile mount the last facing panel.
- The last siding panel closer to the previous one and click until it clicks.
- The top of the panel is to connect with the finish rail and snap.
Installation of siding around windows and doors
- Put the label panel on the edges - the boundaries of the window opening plus 6 mm (points B and B1).
- Measure the depth of the window opening and postpone it down first from point in, then from point B1.
- According to the resulting markup, make two vertical outbreaks on the panel.
- On the horizontal line between the cuts to make a scubrice, spending several times with a knife.
- Bend and blends the panel on the back until it breaks away.
- On the edge formed as a result of the fault, with the help of Punson, squeeze the docking ears at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other.
- Install the cracked edge panel in the j-profile slot.
- On the sides of the panel to secure self-pressing with a press washer, like the rest of the profile.
- The same repeat with the facing panel above the window.
Attention! Placing a cladding under the window, cutout on the panels are made on the perforated part, with a laying over the window, make cutout with a smooth side without perforation.
Installation of siding on the front
For the installation of siding on the frontal walls of the house, templates are made, repeating the shape of the lip of the roof.
- A similar operation on the manufacture of the second template is made on the other side of the front, since the slopes of the roof rods can be unequal, and it is impossible to determine it.
Attention! If the nasty nuclear roof is squeezed, four templates will be required, since the angle of inclination of the roof is changed in height.
- After making templates, the siding panels are cut, the length of which each time is adjusted along the length of the front. In all cases, siding is shortened by the magnitude of two horizontal temperature gaps. If the fronton is wide and panel of siding are located on it for the whole length, then when attaching panels to the frontoth, it is necessary to retreat from the bottom of the taking profile gutter the size of the horizontal temperature gap.
- In the last siding installed under the rid of the roof, the entire mounting edge will be cut, and if part of it remains, it will not be possible to score a nail into it: the facial planks of the framing of the fronton will be interferet. In this case, the panel is fixed through the vinyl stainless fastener. You can break the hole for fasteners, but the drilling of the hole will be technically more correct. When drilling in vinyl, there will be no microcracks that may appear when siding punching, especially with negative air temperatures when the vinyl becomes fragile. Self-tapping caps can be painted in the color of the trim.
If the house has an abnormal sink, it must be seen by a special facing profile, called Sofit.
Cornice cover Sofita
- The edge of the cornese swell is sheltered around the perimeter with a special cornice board.
- The base of the cornese sweep is a j-profile.
- Measure the width of the sink of the cornice.
- Cut from sofit panels with pieces of necessary width: the width of the sink of the eaves of minus 6 mm on each side (tolerance for the expansion of the material).
- Insert the Sofita panel to the pass of the cornice board and in the g-profile groove.
- Put the sofit to the end.
- End ends of the cornice to strip the finish profile.
Siding is a very popular type of finishing country houses. Decorative panels imitate a shipboard, log, bar, stone or brickwork, while much cheaper and easier to install. How to persuade the house by siding - an urgent question for those who are going to improve the appearance of their home for all the rules of technology.
What is siding
The first siding appeared in North America. Initially, it was wooden boards that were fixed on the facade in a certain way. Each top item was slightly hung over the bottom, creating a kind of visor. Due to this, the precipitate did not penetrate the trim, and the walls remained dry.
Modern siding is thin panels of plastic, metal, cement, wood or composites. At its ancestor, it is like a fastening way. The locks between the elements are arranged on the principle of "spike-groove", due to this, the facing is obtained by waterproof.
The most popular and inexpensive siding is from PVC or metal with a polymer coating. Small weight and technological laying make it possible to quickly and not very expensive to convert unsightly walls into a modern well-kept facade. Several less often use fibro-cement or honeycomples. These materials are more expensive, require a professional approach when installing.
Where to begin
Before covering at home you need to solve several tasks:
- Develop a design project, that is, determine how the house will look after decoration;
- calculate and purchase materials;
- Prepare the necessary tools.
Siding must be stored on a flat, dry and clean platform protected from precipitation and sun. To work at the height, there will be strong sustainable forests or scaffolding.
Development of design project
A variety of colors, textures and panel textures allow you to reflect and transform the house even the simplest geometry. You can make the base slightly protruding, to highlight the corners and openings with contrasting color, the sofita lay down parallel to the ground or rafters, etc. It is not recommended to use more than 3 colors in the finish, so as not to create extra multilight and pureness.
The design project is developed taking into account the architecture of the building, the desired color solution and sizes.
It is necessary to determine the places where the joints of the panels will be located and how the basement, frontoths, cornices of the roof. The configuration of the subsystem, as well as the type of finishing as a whole depends on the design of each node.
Calculation of materials
After developing a detailed design project, you can proceed to determine the consumption of materials for its embodiment:
- Sidding panels;
- shaped elements;
- profiles or bars for crates;
- hydraulic proof membrane;
Because the calculations of time-consuming, it is very convenient to use the online calculator. It is enough to introduce the geometric dimensions of your home (walls, openings, frontones, external and internal angles), and the program will give the result in the form of a table, taking into account all technical parameters.
Some calculators offer to calculate the fastener - anchors, brackets, profiles. But the program can not always define the nuances of the project, so it will be more or rather to do it yourself, taking into account your step of profiles, the embodiments of the docking and angular planks.
It is recommended to study the manufacturers regarding the installation in advance to assign the correct step for the carrier frame. For siding from PVC, it should be small - about 40-50 cm. This will provide a reliable fastening of sufficiently flexible panels. For a more rigid material, for example, siding from DPK, a step can be increased to 60, 80 or even 100 cm.
The thickness of the insulation is determined from the heat engineering calculation, which contains many initial data and formulas. An unprepared person independently perform it difficult. To facilitate the task, you can contact the help of specialists or make calculation in the online program.
High-quality material is not found today. These are products of Russian manufacturers - Grand Line, Docke, Fineber, AltaProofil, Nordside, or foreign - Mitten, Tekos, Foundry.
When buying, you need to pay attention to the presence of certificates from the seller, as well as the correctness of storage (in stock, on a flat site, away from heat sources and direct sunlight). When transporting siding is placed on a horizontal surface with a support along the entire length. Putchs must be fixed. It is impossible to move their wolves, allow dropping, blows, removing the protective film and other damaging actions.
How to defend the house Siding: General Principles
So that the finish was neat, beautiful and durable, you need to comply with some technology:
- Installation Conduct with positive air temperature. This is especially important for PVC panels, which are fragile in frost.
- Siding is fixed to the crate or directly base surface in the bottom upward direction. There are some types of metalying, such as "Block House", which are mounted from top to bottom.
- To connect elements in corners, joints and adjoints to use special shaped profiles. They are fixed free to remain the possibility of movement during thermal expansion.
- Installation start from installing angular, starting and window planks. The panels are introduced into their grooves and recorded by self-drawing to the crate through the mounting holes.
- Hardware to install in the center of the castle without tightening.
- Use galvanized or stainless fasteners, resistant to corrosion.
- There should be a gap of at least 6 in summer or 10 mm in winter to compensate for temperature linear expansion.
- Wood-carposit and fibrotent siding do not have perforations, so montamine or with the help of hidden kleimers.
- Between the trim and the wall, leave the ventilation gap of at least 40 mm. It serves to remove condensate and protect structures from moisture.
If the PVC panel needs to be dismantled, it is impossible to pull it or flex. So you can damage the castle. It is recommended to use a special tool or a bent suspension that is entered into the connection and stretches along the edge.
Stages of mounting
Siding cladding is compatible with any walls - wooden, brick, concrete, frame. Their bearing ability is usually enough to keep panels with a subsystem and insulation. Exceptions are very dilated structures that need to be predefined.
If the trimming of fibro-cement siding is supposed, its weight is taken into account together with overlap 17-18 kg per 1 sq.m. In some cases, if the base is not solid enough, the cost is required to load.
Main stages of mounting:
- Installing brackets.
- Laying insulation plates.
- Device hydraulic protection.
- Installation of crates from profiles.
- Fastening the shaped parts, including slopes and lowers.
- Installing siding.
The panels can be mounted directly to the wall, but it creates difficulties rather than simplifies work. First, the base should be geometrically correct and even, which is rarely found, secondly, it is easy and quickly consolidated by cladding, you can only with wooden walls, not brick or concrete, thirdly, will not be able to provide the necessary ventrome. And this in the future can lead to the appearance of dampness and damage the material of the walls.
How to shelter Siding: Step-by-step instructions
With the right device of all layers under the trim, mold or fungus rarely start. But still, manufacturers are recommended to carry out antiseptic surface treatment, especially wooden. It is also necessary to remove the platbands from the windows and doors, close the cracks, remove badly holding fragments.
You will need tools:
- Cutter for cutting siding;
- knife for cutting insulation;
- Scissors for profiles and slats;
- building level;
- Roulette, pencil.
For contact with mineral wool, a mask and glasses will be used.
At this stage there is a markup. Starting from the corners on the facade, the attachment points of the brackets with such a calculation are noted to comply with the conditions:
- from the edge of the walls of at least 100 mm;
- between guide profiles 40-45 cm for PVC panels;
- 50-60 cm for metal).
Also, the lamp should be placed around the openings, protrusions, niches, etc. with an indent of 100 mm.
For markup uses a bubble or laser level, plumbing. To simplify the work, you can note 2 extreme points, and between them with the help of roulette horizontally place intermediate. Then determine the position of the vertical extreme profiles.
Installation of brackets
If the panels are arranged horizontally, the brackets are mounted along the vertical scheme, and vice versa. The length of the bracket is selected taking into account the layer of the insulation and the ventilation gap. If the cake thickness turns out more than 240 mm, the reinforced brackets (QCA) are required with extension cords (CC). Due to this, it is possible to increase the removal of the substructure up to 350 mm.
With the help of a drill or perforator in the wall, the holes are dried, the depth of which should exceed the length of the anchor rod by 15 mm. Dust from wells is removed by a stream of compressed air so that the dowel is consistent, without interference. After the shocking of the dowels with a hammer, anchors and brackets with paronite (isolon) gasket are attached. It will help reduce heat loss through the bridges of the cold, formed at the fastening site.
In brick walls it is necessary to avoid the installation of fasteners in the seam. It is recommended to retreat at least 60 mm from the back, from a spoon - 35 mm.
Thermal insulation facade
Not for each house need insulation, but most often it is very desirable. Heat insulation works are carried out in dry weather to exclude wetting material. The plates are planted on the brackets, for which the holes are on the site of the protruding fasteners or cut holes.
The insulation is installed from the bottom up to have a support. The adjacent should be dense, but without excess compression. Each slab is first attached by 2 plate dowels. The remaining emptiness is filled with the same material.
A wind aggravating membrane (usually the logo is usually outward) and is shot by a stapler. It is impossible to use a polyethylene film that does not allow water vapor from the insulation. Fall of the upper cloth on the lower 100-150 mm. The edges are sampled by scotch or remain open depending on the recommendations of the membrane manufacturer.
After installation, the remaining dowels at least 7 pcs are additionally installed. on sq.m.
If the project is large, the thickness of the insulation is high, it is recommended to lay it in 2 layers with seam breakdown. This will avoid a strong shrinkage of thermal insulator and the formation of cold bridges.
Installation of guides
The next step is the device subsystem. Profiles are attached to the brackets using self-tapping screws or rivets for 2 pieces per 1 connection. For convenience, you can first install on the extreme points of the guides, and between them stretch the thread or lace. It will only be left to align all the internal profiles on the plane of the crate.
The vertical step between the brackets is set by the project. For residential buildings up to 2 floors, it can be taken by 40-50 cm. At the bottom of the brackets are mounted not close to the capol (or gentle), but with an indentation of at least 100 mm. The profile end must be located above the ground at an altitude of at least 40 mm so that during seasonal bearing to avoid deformation. Between two guides, the length should also leave the compensation gap of 10-15 mm.
Subsystem profiles are attached around window and doorways. It will later be fixed with coil strips and flows.
The shaped elements for external corners are not wide enough so that they can be screwed to two mutually perpendicular to the extreme guide. For their attachment, individual small frameworks are made in the form of straight corners:
- Cut a piece of rails equal to the length of the distance of distances between 2 guides to the corner of the trim.
- Cut and bend the workpiece so that a straight angle formed. In the place of the bend, screw the screws.
- Cut and bend small areas of the side shelves of the profile. It should be a hard corner with two protrusions for fastening to the crate.
There are 3-4 pcs such elements. to the outer angle and consolidate them to the frame every 75-100 cm in height.
Installation of shaped profiles
Before starting the installation of siding panels, some components are installed:
- Starting Plank;
- complex profiles;
- Coil and door strips.
Simple good, unlike sophisticated complex after mounting the trim. They are screwed by self-pressing over the finished coating, hide the connection site, but their own fastening remains visible.
Sophisticated planks consist of 2 parts. The bottom is installed on the self-tapping screw or rivets before mounting the panels, and after its end, the upper is inserted into the grooves until the lock is snapped. There is no additional fastener here.
The docking planks allow you to close the scene of the siding, but visually it remains noticeable. Therefore, before installation, it is advisable to make the layout of the panels, taking into account their size so that the connection is as aesthetic as possible. It is much more careful and the junction between the segments of 2.5 and 2.5 m than 3 and 2 looks more logical.
When designing openings, it is necessary to pay special attention to the direction of the drainage of precipitation. With string of coil slats, special tongues are cut off, protecting the inner space from water from entering or allowing it unhindered to remove it.
All corners and planks are mounted with a weakening. It is impossible to allow their dense adjacent to each other or to the crate. This makes it possible to facing not to deform when the temperature fluctuations are freely shifted in the connections.
Siding manufacturers have developed optimal solutions of various nodes to ensure the normal operation of the ventilated facade.
The prerequisite is the presence of the ventilation and supply and exhaust slots at the base, eaves and openings width of at least 3 cm. Due to this, a traction that reduces water vapors into the atmosphere is created between the wall and the trim.
Installation of facing
Singing can be installed on the base or without it. In the first case, the base drain must already be mounted. Slightly above the initial plank. The hydraulic recreation membrane is touched under the insulation.
The first row panels are entered by the bottom edge into the starting bar (it must be strictly horizontal throughout the perimeter of the house). The top of the siding is fixed to the guide self-drawing. On the screwdriver you need to set the "Do not wait" mode so that the running of the running occurs automatically.
The panel of each next row is placed in the edge into the lock of the lower element before clicking and attaching to the crate, starting from the middle. Sometimes they are coming on the side as a rail. It is impossible to stretch the material, pull out from the compounds or pour the hammer.
If the facing is mounted on top down (for example, a metal block house), the panel is inserted into the groove of the overlying element, and the bottom is screwed to the subsystem. With the vertical location of the siding, the mount can be carried out both to the right left and vice versa.
In the case when the skin is conducted from the ground level, you need to find the highest point of the foundation, retreat up 40 mm, score a nail or screw the screw. It will be the starting point to install the starting plank. The shaped details are screwed to the crate of a loosely. The first and last plank must converge together.
Upper cake siding often requires trimming. Delighted lock Detail cannot be kept in a J-bar or J-Faq. To secure her edge in the profile, there are notches on the entire panel. With the help of a special pass every 10 cm along the panel length, holes with P-shaped edges are formed. At the expense of small protrusions, siding is easily fixed in the grooves of the finish plank.
Instead of a specialized tool, you can use a pipe cutter with a diameter of 10 mm with a sharpened end and a hammer. The panel is placed on a semi-solid base, for example, a board, and is processed along the cutout device.
The better cutting
You can paint vinyl siding by any sharp cutter or saw. Be sure to be a support for a rigid basis. The material becomes fragile at low temperatures, so it is not recommended to work with it.
Metal siding is better cut by metal scissors. Even if the burrs will remain, they will hide under the straps and will be invisible. The abrasive tool is prohibited for use, as it burns the protective layer, which causes fast metal corrosion at the place of the cut.
How to shelter the house siding with their own hands interests many country real estate owners. So that the finish is not deformed from heating, all connections must be incomplete. It is also necessary to provide a ventilation clearance for weathering condensate from under the trim. Additionally, the facade warming can be carried out, which will significantly reduce power consumption.
Siding lifting refers to dry outdoor decoration types and is suitable for most types of residential and economic buildings, especially from foam concrete and sandwich panels. Its light weight will not have a significant load on the foundation, so such a facing applied on old wooden houses.
The growing popularity of siding is explained not only by the low price, but also durability, because it does not have the plaster, over time, simple departure, excellent protective properties and a rich selection of shades and textures. The undoubted plus siding is that it is possible to give a modern appearance to the old house with your own hands, significantly saving on the services of builders.
Tools and materials
Before sheeing a house by siding, you should check the following tools:
- Bulgarian or saw with small cloths, metal scissors,
- screwdriver and screwdriver
- a hammer,
- roulette, square and level (laser roulette will significantly simplify work),
- The stepladder whose height will be enough to get to the roof of the house.
Siding manufacturers offer a complete set of elements and panels for the posted house even a complex configuration. As a rule, the buyer should specify the area of the walls of the house and their size, the type of roof and the number of windows, and the seller himself calculates the required number of certain parts, the schematic plan of the house outside will facilitate this process.
Knowing some moments will help to control or check the calculation. So, components for the installation of siding include the following items:
- The outer angle is the height of this element 3 m, and, if the house is one-storey, it is worth using whole elements for each outdoor corner of the house; If the height of the walls is more than 3 m, then they summarize the length of all outer corners in meters and divide it to 3, given that the reserve should remain when docking. Corners are used not only with a decorative goal, but also due to the fact that siding ends must be closed.
- Internal angles are calculated by the same principle. If the roof cornice is separated by siding, internal angles are also used on the sections of its connection with the wall. In cases where the cornice finishes was performed earlier or will not be carried out at all, use the finish bar.
- To finish the cornice, use such elements like sofa and wind board.
- The required length of the starting plank is equal to the perimeter of the house minus the width of doors and frontones.
- On the plots of connecting the connections, the height difference and the roofs of different levels use the J-profile.
- The perimeter of windows is trimmed with a window plank, it needs to be taken with a margin so that there is no docking locations. Also, for the framework of windows we need, which should also not have visible joints.
- On the perimeter of the base, the drain bar is installed or fed, if its width of 40 cm is not enough.
- If the length of the house is greater than 3.66 m - the standard length of the siding panels, the connection occurs with the H-profile. It is necessary to think about the places of its installation so that the proportions of the building remain.
- The number of panels themselves for siding is approximately calculated by the formula: "((The area of all walls of the house is the area of windows and doors) / panel area) * 1,10» . The stock of 10% is required to flow on trimming and marriage.
- For installation, it is preferable to use galvanized screws with a length of 25-35 mm, since their use makes it easier to retain the recommended gap in 1mm. Per 1 sq.m. It consumes approximately 2 screws, they should also be taken with a margin. If there is an opportunity, it is worth choosing a screw with a rubberized head, from which there will definitely not remain rusty leaks in a few years.
Before covering siding, preparatory work is necessary. Initially dismantle all the protruding details: doors, platbands, lattices, etc. Close up of cement mortar or mounting foam all slots in the walls, around windows and doors. The walls of the old house are cleaned of dirt and dust, breakaway plaster and paint, mold and fallen areas. Wooden houses are processed by antiseptics and antipyatics, the walls of foam concrete can be treated with primer deep penetration.
Installation of crates
First of all, it is necessary to mount the crate of a metal profile or wooden rails, as it is categorically impossible to fix the panels directly to the wall. The galvanized profile is the only option for metallic siding and for brick and concrete walls. As a profile, you can use the CD profile for drywall. If the vinyl profile is attached to a wooden or frame house, you can use railings 60 * 40 mm with residual humidity 15-20%, treated with antiseptic and carefully dried.
With the help of roulette and level, there are straight lines on the walls of the house so as to get a closed outline. Thoroughly measuring the distance in the corners of the house from this line to the base, they are minimal, and postponing it down, another contour is carried out. In the future, the starting plank is installed on this line, and if it is deviated from the level, the cladding panel will sink.
Then, with the help of P-shaped mounts, vertical guides starting with angles are mounted. It is necessary to achieve their dense fit to the wall, for which you can put the pieces of wood or dense foam. The distance between them is 30-40 cm, in those places where there will be an additional load for siding, for example, street lamps, as well as near the corners, windows and doors, you need to add guides. Vertical guides should not connect anything so that no obstacles for ventilation occurred, since the lack of air current will lead to the appearance of mold.
Waterproofing and insulation
For wooden, fuel-concrete walls, the installation of waterproofing is required, and the layer of the insulation is optional. As a material, it is worth a preference to the vagation-proof membrane. If insulation is not produced, the film is fixed directly on the wall of the house to save the distance required for siding ventilation. When installing the insulation layer, the waterproofing is laid on top of it, and then the lamp is reopening again to ensure the gap for ventilation.
Fastening guide elements
Installation starts from the installation of waterproofing on the base, placing its upper edge along the previously intended line. It is a rigid design, and securely fix it easier than a flexible starting bar. Then turn the angular profiles. They should be rigidly fixed by self-drawing at the top of the first hole. Subsequent screws are screwed into the middle of the hole.
If it is necessary to increase the length, the upper profile should be laid in the bottom with the overlap of several centimeters. After the previously marked line, the starting bar is fixed on top of the waterproof. It should be 5 mm above the lower edge of the angular profile.
The window planks or J-profiles are fixed around the windows so that the outer bottom edge is a few centimeters below the internal one. Door openings will finish j-profiles. The angles of these elements can be stored under 45 degrees, and you can put the brackets, putting the top planks on the side.
With the vertical setting of the N-profiles in the predetermined places, the level is used. As with the installation of other vertical elements, you need to leave a gap of 5-6 mm to the cornice and the base so that the barns do not curb when expanding. Under the roof or where it ends with an area provided for under the skin siding, the finish plank is mounted.
When all guide elements are installed, you can move directly to the installation of panels. The first row is attached to the starting bar before clicking the lock below, at the top of the panel is fixed with self-reserves in the center of the oblong holes every 40 cm. All other panels are installed on the same principle, a row for nearby rising to the roof or window. It is not necessary to pull the panel up and fasten it hard, it should go to the sides slightly. The top row of siding finish the finish plank.
What needs to take into account?
Rule number 1. In no case should not rigid siding panels. The material from which they are made is compressed in frost and expands when heated, length fluctuations can reach 1%. This is exactly what the elongated form of mounting holes is caused. Attachments cannot be screwed or driven through the panel, but only in the center of the special hole, and the screw is screwed down, with a gap of 1 mm between plates and a hat. In violation of this rule, siding may simply burst with a strong heating.
Rule number 2. There should be a gap of about 10 mm between the planks and guides (when installing in hot weather - less) so that when expanding siding does not argue. When lining the house in summer, it is worth protecting the material from the Sun.
Rule number 3. Siding installation can be made at any time of the year, but it should be noted that at a temperature below -10 degrees, the elements can crack when cutting, so you should be careful and use the grinder.
With the help of siding, subject to the rules and installation technology, you can update the house and protect it from atmospheric influences for 30-40 years, it is all the service life that manufacturers promise.
Siding installation with your own hands step by step
If you want to quickly, beautiful and cheap to separate the facade of the house, most likely come to solve the use of siding. These are already far from those frankly plastic thin planks with an unpleasant glitter. Modern siding imitates different textures of traditional finishing materials: stone, brick, wood. All surfaces look quite reliably. If a torn stone, then the painting and the surface is very similar. In the panels under the brick there are even natural irregular material for this material, cracks and chips are sold and drawn. The texture of the tree is quite accurately transmitted. Not in all materials, but in many. Today we produce it today using at least five different materials and many technologies. Another important advantage of this material is that the installation of siding with your own hands is not a super-difficult task, accessible to anyone who is able to keep the hammer.
Types of siding for the trim of the house
Let's start with the fact that it is produced from different materials: based on polymers, wood, metal and combinations thereof. Here are the main types that are used for outdoor clamping houses:
- galvanized iron;
- DPK - wood-polymer composite.
The first of the polymeric we had vinyl siding - from polyvinyl chloride, which abbreviated the PVC. Today, it also has and has the lowest prices, and externally differs significantly from the first samples. It became much more attractive, there is not only smooth - with imitation of the wood surface - it is also called "siding under the log". This is if in the section he is semicircular. There is one that repeats the bar profile. So you can shelter the house and siding under the bar. Some of the profiles and colors can be seen in the photo gallery.
The second polymer siding is acrylic. It costs about 50% more vinyl, but it is justified: it has the best characteristics, many look more like more. What is his advantages? It is more plastic, due to which it withstands heavy loads, it cracks less in the cold (vinyl at minus temperatures becomes brittle). The range of acrylic operating temperatures from -50 ° C to + 50 ° C, acrylic can be heated by Dr + 85 ° C without loss of operational properties. And yet: acrylic burns less, although it all depends on the quality of the pigment. All these features are reflected on the warranty period: manufacturers for imported vinyl siding give a guarantee of 25 years (on our 5-7), on acrylic - 50 years (on our about 10). Externally, acrylic is almost no different from vinyl, so there is no point in publishing similar drawings.
It all was about traditional siding, which is produced in the form of long strips (the thickness of the polymer wall, by the way, from 0.8 to 1.2 mm). But there is still a ground version that has the type of sheets with uneven edges (for better docking). It is called still facade panels. It imitates the stone or brickwork, as well as some types of wood coatings - chip, for example. Some samples of the base siding, see our photo formation.
This type of siding is more expensive, but stronger - the wall thickness is 2-3 mm depending on the manufacturer. Some reinforce plates to give greater rigidity: so that the finish is more durable. The warranty is given from 25 to 50 years, the temperature range depends on the material, because these facade plates are made from vinyl or acrylic. In any case, they add more titanium, which makes it more plastic, because it does not break even in frost. It is Titan in many respects and affects the price: the more it is, the stronger the polymer becomes.
When finishing it is important to remember that polymers at different temperatures have different size. Therefore, when installing Sading, be sure to leave the gaps that these changes compensate.
This type of finishing material is made of fine metal - galvanized steel or fine aluminum. Aluminum is more durable, but also much more expensive. In the production of metallic siding on a sheet of steel 0.4-0.5 mm thick for protection against the appearance of rust, a whole "pie" is rolling from protective and finishing layers, the main of which is zinc. The latter is paint or polymer coating. Metalosidang with a polymer coating is more expensive, but also the service life is more, and it burns less.
It is clear that the metal is more durable than plastic, but only if the protective coating is not violated. Therefore, when cutting siding on a metal basis, a grinder cannot be used: the place of the cut is heavily warmed up, protective films are burned. Subsequently, the corrosion begins. For the same reason, when installing it is fixed on galvanized screws: they are guaranteed not to scratch the coating.
Of the features - siding from metal has a significant weight, because it must be considered when calculating the foundation. If you wanted to sheathe the old house by metal &ide, this is possible only if the foundation has a margin of safety. If not - you have to strengthen it. Another nuance: Since the metal is well spent warm, the house is required to warm well (installed only with the insulation).
This finishing material is made from a mixture of sand and cement, which added for reinforcement fibrovolok. From this composition form siding or stoves. The technology was invented in Japan, because this siding is also called Japanese.
The advantages of this material include its non-causing or low flammability, if the front side is painted. This material does not respond to changes in temperature, it is not afraid of ultraviolet (the material itself, and not a coating), does not change its properties when freezing. But since it consists of cement, then water absorbs, and still have a solid weight. Because if you are going to sow a house outside fibro-cement siding, its weight also needs to be considered when calculating the foundation. When developing the cake of walls, it is necessary to take care that the facade is ventilated: an air layer should be between the trim and wall of the house.
Another feature of this material is the colors that you see in the photo above is the result of staining. It is applied after the plates are molded. Paint penetrates quite deeply and manufacturers guarantee paint resistance over 10 years. But then it will have to update: take a brush or roller and paint.
Siding DPK - Polymer Composite
Siding under a tree or DPK makes from wood flour mixed with a polymer. He not only phon like a tree, but also smells also. Very similar and tactile sensations. Unlike fibrocement, the DPK is painted for the whole depth: the pigment is added with the ground before the molding. There is a heat extension - about 3 mm for each meter, the color of the racks, the strength is high - from the same material they make a decker - a terraced board, so according to it the people trampled for years. She, by the way, you can also see the house.
Of the disadvantages of this material: a fairly high price - from 850 to 2000 rubles per square meter, not a very large palette of colors, the lack of good elements and the developed installation technology. The material is new, all flaws from it. But they are forgotten when the material see live: it is very attractively looking and very similar to the wood. In the photo specification, photos from the cottages under construction and houses, not advertising. So you can estimate the real look.
Since the material is new, there are few reviews, but those that are positive. For example, this: "Two years have passed, color keeps nor cracks or deformations." Region - Moscow and Samara.
How to choose siding to cover at home
After you have decided on the type of siding, which will be sowning, you must not be mistaken with the manufacturer. You will need to carefully inspect the products and check the following points:
- Uniform painting. If the color is smooth, no changes and extraneous enclosures should be either on the back side or on the facial.
- Uniform wall thickness. Inspect some boards "in profile". The thickness of the partitions should be the same. Influes or pit, even on the inside, is a sign of poor quality.
- Inspect the holes under fasteners. They must have smooth edges without scoring.
- Smooth longitudinal edges of locks, no deformation in any plane.
If everything is fine, you can buy.
Installation instructions do it yourself
Despite the fact that siding is made from different materials, the principle of its installation is one: on a flat surface. In some cases it can be a flat wall, but mostly on the crate.
Siding installation with her own hands begins with checking the status of walls. If the house is new, no special action is required. If the old one is removed, everything that can subsequently collapse: badly holding a tile, pieces of plaster. If there is an old finish, which can be easily removed, it is desirable to dismantle it. Decorative elements are also removed - lamps, facing of windows and doors, etc., sinks of the roof are disassembered. They are then installed in place after finishing work.
After that, the installation of siding independently produce in such a sequence:
- On the perimeter of the building, the horizontal is fought off, the lowest point is located. Starting profile is not lower than this point. All that is below, closes the cropped board.
- An idle is installed. Its step depends on the type of material selected, but most often it is 40 cm (for metal) can be up to 1 m). The lamp is exhibited in the level, adjusting the irregularities of the wall. If necessary, put wood or pieces of plywood of the desired thickness.
- The starting profile is mounted on the applied mark.
- Corner elements are installed. Relevant dobors put around windows and doors.
- A number of chairs are installed and the siding is fixed, starting from below, moving up.
- A j-profile is installed at the top, which fixes the bar from above. If the whole bar is not included, it is cut from below.
Actually, all the covering of the house is completed by siding. Some items require explanations. About them - below with photos and video explanations and instructions.
Under any type, you can use wooden bars 50 * 50 mm or galvanized profile for outdoor work. For more severe materials, such as fibrocement or DPK, you can use fasteners for facade systems. He, of course, roads, but it is convenient to work with him.
If the crate for siding is made from wood, the bars are necessarily treated with biomestic impregnations: so as not to multiply the fungi and mold. A similar composition is a wooden or frame house walls before finishing.
The shadow step is indicated by the manufacturer, but often it is also determined by the geometry of the house: if there are many broken lines, the crate has to do more often. It must be installed:
- at the top and bottom of the wall;
- around window and doorways;
- on corners;
- On the plane with the desired step.
By the installation method, the vinyl, acrylic and metallic siding can be horizontal and vertical. Depending on the direction of laying the finishing board, the crate is stuffed in a perpendicular direction: if the boards are nourished vertically, the crate is horizontally and vice versa.
As already talked, standard for the wooden crate under siding take the timber 50 * 50 mm. But if an insulation is assumed to be installed, the bar thickness should be greater: depends on the required thickness of the insulation. In this case, the bar must be wider than the insulation by 2-3 cm. This is an inventory that will help maintain normal humidity in the house and in all layers of finishing.
The drying of the tree under the siding questions does not cause: with a tree, almost everything can work, but how to make a crate from profiles not to all understandable. Clarifications and advice on how to fix the profile of the crate to the wall - in the video.
Mounting siding with insulation with your own hands
The insulation under siding is used by traditional: foam plastic, polystyrene foam (extruded or not), mineral wools. For wooden houses, mineral wool is most often used: with a low cost, it has good characteristics and does not prevent the removal of excessive moisture from the house, and this is important if the wooden house has gathered. When covering a siding of a brick house or a house of foam blocks, construction blocks can be used and foam: the walls are not very "breathable" and the same insulation will work normally in a pair with them.
Wallowed out the wooden house without crate is undesirable. Let even the walls are smooth. Condensate will be formed on the inner surface of the trim: steam passes through a wooden wall, deposited on a cooler surface. Humidity in this gap will be high: no ventilation gap, evaporation is bad. Conditions are created for the rapid destruction of wood.
Therefore, in any case, a doomle is stuck on a wooden surface. If the trim is with the insulation, it is installed and fixed between its plars. They laid very tight, with effort, so that there are no cracks near the slats, the cold bridges. If the layer is not one, it is placed so that the seams of the lower row are closed by the upper, can be in different directions (see in the figure).
From above windproof vapor-permeable membrane. Pay attention to this material: it depends on how long your insulation will "live". Not polyethylene film, but a membrane that does not lock the vapor of water inside (from the insulation, water vapors can exit), simultaneously protecting the penetration of moisture outside (atmospheric precipitation and condensate inside can not get). On top of it - a counterclaim, which will create a broughtlated gap. Boards or panels are already attached to the counter-crate.
In this case, as you understand, perpendicular to the direction of laying siding should be a controller. Therefore, the first is stuffed in the same direction as the sading.
How siding is attached
The main problems with the outdoor decoration of the house siding are associated with violation of the installation technology. Therefore, this must be taken very carefully and accurately comply with the recommendations. Manufacturers can have a different set of challenges - profiles for docking slats and design of openings - but the installation is the same:
- Exactly in the horizontal to secure the starting profile.
- To securely secure siding, you must insert it into the lock along the entire length. To do this, it can be slightly constructed from above (only slightly).
- After installing the strip, do not tighten it up, but to mount in the "natural" state.
- By producing siding installation with your own hands, it is important to fix the slats correctly: in the middle of the mounting hole. They are specially made oblong so that when changing the size of the planks due to thermal expansion, they could move. It is also important to harden a little happiness, leaving at least 1 mm free legs - so that the panel can move.
- When docking with good elements (corners, edging windows and doors), it is necessary to cut off the boards so that they do not reach 5-6 mm. This is also an expansion allowance.
There are requirements for the type and size of fasteners:
- It is allowed to use screws or nails.
- The fastener hat should be of the size of at least 8 mm (diameter 4 mm). Self-tapping screws should be rounded, not flat.
- Rod thickness - 3 mm.
When installing metal, it is recommended to use galvanized fasteners: it will not damage the zinc protective coating. For other types of self-tapping screws, it is better to use white, not black: they withstand heavy loads (black when twisting is often reduced by a hat).
This is relevant for this material of any kind: it is also necessary to secure vinyl, and acrylic, and metallic. What causes violations when installing, see the video.
Video Installation Instructions
Vinyl or acrylic siding technology is described in detail in this video. It is about how and in what order to install profiles, how to mount and dock external and internal angles. The process of facing the window siding is described in detail.
Installation of facade siding is not much different. Unless the fact that the lamp is required "into the cell". Otherwise, everything is also: screws are installed in the center of the mounting holes, they do not tighten them.
There are small features in the docking of elements. On the back of the panels there are stops that do not give to promote the panel further. When installing siding under a stone or brick, you must not miss this moment: the stops at a strong jug can break. It is not bad for the features of the installation in the advertising and educational video of the German manufacturer Docke (dock or deck).
On how the vinyl siding under the stone is a large wooden house, see the next video. This is not an advertising video, but experience: Laying siding with her own hands was made for the first time. What happened and what sensations are looking.